Trinity belts are built of Polaris specifications and are certified. Which means "If they are not
within 5% of Polaris specs we do not take them."
In a stock unit without a clutch kit, the belt can get slack because one clutch is working faster
than the other causing a “bowing effect” allowing the belt to hit the top of the housing causing
friction and breaking the top cog’s. The unit need’s more back shift as well as tighter deflection.
(Slamming on the brakes at high speeds will cause this as well)
Resulting issues will be;
1. Too much heat from slippage
2. Excessive belt speed
The stages from slipping and hour glassing a belt are;
1. Small piece of top cog separates from belting
2. Large piece or all of top cog separates
3. Bottom cog cracks
4. Bottom cog totally separates from belting
The belt speed is a very common problem that most people have not heard about before. It
became a common issue when the ECU re-flash started happening that allowed the speed/rpm
A quality clutch kit helps with belt issues as it will decrease operating belt temp. It does not help
with a unit running in full shift out for an extended period. We have almost zero belt issues with
the Trinity clutch kit as it normally runs 15-20 degrees less belt temp!!
The belt speed happens when you run extended high speed/rpm. I would say that it starts
showing up at 8700 and or above that. The belt has to go around a very small diameter in the
driven. The clutch efficiency is at full shift out is minimal and it creates heat—hence—blown
One basic step to installing a new belt that gets overlooked is belt prep and breakin.
With most all brands of belts, they have a slight oily residue on the sides so the new belt should
be washed in a warm water Dawn soap bath,rinsed and then air dryed.
As for the clutch sheaves it is best to ensure they are clean by using scotch-brite pad or
steel wool to smooth the surfaces out then removing belt rubber or oil residue with
Breaking in your new belt, put on the car and start in neutral. Run it up and down the
sheaves a few times. Get in and drive it easy until its good and warm (like 5 minutes or so after
engine is up to temp), let it cool, repeat. After that drive it.
Always allow it to warm up a little before you get on the gas. Cold belts don't like big loads.
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By Jeff Baker